The debate over whether New York Fashion Week is overshadowed by its European counterparts has led several US fashion brands to explore opportunities across the Atlantic. While some argue that the increased focus on emerging talent in New York might be driving established names away, others believe that established European luxury giants lure American designers seeking broader exposure and market share.
Despite efforts to enhance New York’s appeal, including the appointment of Thom Browne as Chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) in 2022, designers like Todd Snyder and KidSuper have recently showcased their collections in Florence and Paris, respectively. This trend raises questions about the loyalty of American designers to their hometown fashion week.
Todd Snyder and Woolrich: US designer Todd Snyder, once a prominent figure at New York Fashion Week, shifted his spotlight to Florence’s Pitti Uomo and later presented at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. His runway return showcased “The Modernist,” combining his Woolrich line with his eponymous brand. The collection featured influences from British Savile Row tailoring, representing a departure from his previous US-centric themes.
KidSuper: Brooklyn-based KidSuper, known for its streetwear and hype culture, gained global attention through its live-streamed event “Living Room Fashion Show” during the pandemic. After catching the eye of French label Louis Vuitton, KidSuper’s Colm Dillane became a guest designer for Louis Vuitton’s AW23 collection. The recent AW24 collection, titled ‘String Theory,’ showcased NY winter vibes, incorporating live violin performances and the surprise appearance of Brazilian footballer Ronaldinho Gaúcho.
Rick Owens: California-born designer Rick Owens, who made his NYFW debut in 2002, has had a longstanding love affair with Paris. While he initially moved to the City of Lights a year after his New York debut, his recent AW24 collection, titled ‘Porterville,’ was presented in his Parisian home. Drawing inspiration from his upbringing in Porterville, California, the collection featured architectural jackets and shagged wrap-around bundles reflecting the Sierra Nevada mountain range.
The allure of Paris and Milan seems to persist for American designers, raising the question of whether their sentimental ties to New York are reflected in their support for the city’s fashion week.
Note: The original article was segmented for clarity and coherence.
