“Success always paves its own way,” and in the Fall/Winter 2024 fashion season, the successful Rick Owens continues to tread his path of unique creativity, breaking the rules of traditional men’s fashion with a distinctly “eccentric” aesthetic.
For the past 25 years, since his debut in the fashion world, Rick Owens and his enigmatic creative vision have consistently attracted curiosity and admiration. Despite ongoing controversies, hidden beneath the provocative surface is Rick Owens’ unwavering desire to overturn the established norms of the fashion world. He boldly stands against societal and fashion constraints, advocating for a life of freedom. This rebellious spirit aims to bring souls closer to a world that is dark, straightforward, and devoid of compromise. While for many, fashion serves as a gateway to a dazzling “paradise,” Rick Owens’ devoted followers find solace in his peculiar universe, allowing them to embrace unconventional values and seek true freedom. The Fall/Winter 2024 collection and the recent runway show provide a tangible and detailed exploration of this.
Interpreting the avant-garde influence and spirit unyielding to the oppression of emerging trends, Rick Owens’ runway shows consistently stand out as an anticipated destination for fashion enthusiasts. No one can predict the next move of the “lord of darkness.” For Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear, he ignited anticipation by boldly stating, “Eccentric and inhumane, it will be the most disappointing experience a person can have in their lifetime.”
Set against a backdrop of artistic concrete walls and unique furnishings, the runway at Rick Owens’ private residence immediately raises questions. Artfully arranged furniture complements the almost empty rooms, creating an atmosphere of darkness and mystery, reflective of Rick Owens himself. Choosing his intimate home as the runway, Rick Owens’ Fall/Winter 2024 becomes an adventure into the designer’s past, showcasing his styles and new visions alongside creative imprints that have withstood the test of time.
The journey into Rick Owens’ past extends to his hometown, “Porterville,” California, a name given to both the town and the collection. Nestled between the Sierra Nevada mountains and the San Joaquin Valley, Porterville has a deep connection with some of California’s largest national parks but finds itself at the crossroads between nature and industrial development. Rick Owens describes his childhood in this “bleak” town as a period of resistance against rigidity and a society filled with prejudices. Refusing to conform to traditional standards of masculinity and proper behavior, young Rick, a different child, yearned for cities and artistic cradles, where he could truly be free.
Tyrone Dylan, Rick Owens’ partner, opens the Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear show, displaying a muscular physique beneath the natural light streaming through floor-to-ceiling windows. The captivating exposed back keeps the audience’s attention, emphasizing layered trousers, reverse-knit sweaters, spherical necklaces, and notably, inflatable boots. The “less fabric” approach, the inflated proportions, and unconventional layering hint at a forthcoming parade of peculiarities, unapologetic to traditional transitions.
On the melody of David Bowie’s “Warszawa,” bubble-like boots, seemingly crafted from a sci-fi movie, collide, producing melodies full of desire. Accompanied by the sound of heels echoing on the wooden floor from glossy Kiss boots, the atmosphere is set.
The exploration of Rick Owens’ roots is conveyed through the gothic-style “Porterville” font, placed prominently on an oversized wool sweater. The elongated sleeves end in a tattered fashion, with a matching balaclava, perfectly contrasting the puffed boots, transforming models into extraterrestrials or AI-generated beings. The collection further explores inflated silhouettes, oversized triangular coats with broad shoulders and square shapes, gradually narrowing at the waist with intricate geometric stitching.
The trend of inflated styles, initiated last season by brands like Maison Margiela, Prada, and Coach, continues with Rick Owens for Fall/Winter 2024. The exaggerated and wild shoulders become a focal point, while the upper body is not entirely neglected. The inflated proportions manifest in voluminous shoulders of coats.
Rick Owens’ shoulders have evolved through each season, becoming higher, broader, puffier, and wilder. The collection progresses from fitted coats to body-wrapping dresses made from wrapped scarves, engulfing the models’ bodies. The appearance resembles the feathered ball in “The Fifth Element.”
In Owens’ dark world, filled with sharp edges, there still exists glimmers of hope for a brighter life. The unexpected presence of sweet pink in a predominantly black color palette, loose-fitting styles, and cozy knitted bodysuits or long fur coats made from soft cashmere are tangible proofs. Alongside these are leather ensembles, inspired by rugged biker aesthetics, adorned with shiny zipper details and practicality.
In contrast to the current trend of simplifying men’s fashion, Rick Owens remains steadfast in his unique approach, shielding wearers from the conflicting fluctuations of today’s era with discreetly enclosed helmets or abstract garments covering from head to torso. Unyielding to the pressure of flexibility in fashion, Rick Owens’ Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear with its spiked enclosures breathes avant-garde, a rarity in the ready-to-wear fashion landscape.
“Mocking mediocrity, mocking intolerance, and mocking what is considered aesthetically beautiful and socially appropriate,” Rick Owens’ journey into his past for the freedom of fashion not only involves him but also incorporates the presence of emerging talents. Two notable boots in the collection, the Kiss Boot and the inflatable boot, symbolize a remarkable collaboration between Rick and London-based designer Leo Prothman and Central Saint Martins graduate STRAYTUKAY. This uncommon occurrence in the industry underscores Rick Owens’ admirable approach of embracing young designers from his dedicated community, bridging the gap between the old and new to maintain a special creative value needed in today’s commercially influenced fashion world.
“Disappointment with the present state, with how everything unfolds, and the desire to reach somewhere more magical,” the designer shared with the media after the runway show. In this promised land, the Rick Owens community will likely expand, and soon we will wear his clothing as a natural choice, never compromising with the rigid standards of fashion.
